EASTERN ZAGORI

With the exception of Vovousa, Eastern Zagori remains a forgotten and neglected area compared to the much-advertised and famous villages of the rest of Zagori. Vast expanses of forest, a relatively mild mountain relief, and sparse settlements with dwindling populations have allowed nature to preserve one of the wildest, rarest, and most beautiful ecosystems in Greece. Especially at night, it is quite likely you will hear — or if you’re lucky, even encounter — one of the wild mammals that inhabit the region, such as the brown bear, wolf, roe deer, wild boar, or wildcat.
Sustainable logging has been practiced in the area for many decades, leaving behind a vast network of forestry roads through these magical forests — a perfect terrain for unforgettable mountain bike adventures. The proposed route offers a wonderful introduction to the area and can easily be extended to include a hiking excursion, such as the beautiful trail leading into the core of the Valia Kalda National Park or the more demanding ascent to the summit of Avgo.

Day 1: Gyftokampos – Makrino ( 29.3 km | ↑ 680 m – ↓ 870 m )

The route begins in Gyftokampos, at the bike-friendly guesthouse FREE INN ZAGORI, under the imposing cliffs of Eastern Tymfi. The first part follows the “main” dirt road connecting Gyftokampos with Makrino (also part of the Protect Aoos MTB race), before veering off into a labyrinth of secondary logging roads — surprisingly well maintained — climbing to a nameless summit at 1450 m, deep within dense beech forest.
Here, we almost had a head-on encounter with the famous brown bear, which fortunately retreated down the steep slope just in time. From this point, a delightful descent leads to the settlement of Kastanona, and the day ends on the deserted flat asphalt stretch to the village of Makrino, with constant southern views toward Mount Lakmos.
Overnight: camping under the welcoming porch of the village church.

Day 2: Makrino – Vovousa ( 30.2 km | ↑ 1390 m – ↓ 930 m )

The second day starts with an uphill asphalt ride to Elatochori and the main road leading to Vovousa. In summer, it is wise to start early, as the southern orientation and lack of shade can make this climb taxing. From there, a long but steady, shaded ascent through black pine forest brings you to the spot known as Konismata at 1480 m.
After a breath of mountain air, the fun begins! A well-maintained forest/logging road (also part of Protect Aoos MTB) takes you through gentle ups and downs to a clearing, where an abandoned, at times rough dirt road begins its dreamy descent. Through a stunning black pine forest, it drops to the Aoos River at Lakos tou Papa. This atmospheric section strongly recalls the mysterious Valia Kalda.
From here, a detour is well worth it: head to the meeting point of the Arkoudorema stream with the Aoos, in the location called Smixomata (a little extra biking plus some hiking). This is a perfect spot for swimming and rest. The route then follows the river downstream, first on dirt and then on a wide downhill asphalt road, all the way to Vovousa.
Overnight: camping or guesthouse stay in Vovousa.

Day 3: Vovousa – Gyftokampos ( 24.8 km | ↑ 860 m – ↓ 670 m )

The last day follows the wide, well-packed dirt road connecting Vovousa with Gyftokampos, via the mountain mass of Morfa/Koukourountzos. The climb is long but steady and mild, quickly gaining elevation to reach the Morfa pass and the junction for Laista at 1500 m. The majestic Bosnian pines and endless views toward Smolikas and Tymfi lend a truly alpine character to the ride up to the highest point at 1600 m.
From here, the route rewards you with the final exhilarating descent through the forest, on gravel sections that require caution, down to Tsouka’s spring with its icy water. Soon after, you roll back into Gyftokampos and the FREE INN ZAGORI guesthouse, with a wide smile on your face.