KOZIAKAS & TRIGGIA

Koziakas and Triggia are two characteristic mountain ranges of the Southern Pindos, forming a natural barrier between the Thessalian plain and the deeper mountainous world of the Pindos. Koziakas, also known as Mount Kerketio, rises to the east, with its highest summit, Astrapi, reaching 1,901 metres, while Triggia, above Krania and Palaiochori, reaches 2,204 metres. Their slopes alternate between dense coniferous and deciduous forests, open mountain meadows, rocky ridges and streams that carve their way through the landscape.

The area is of outstanding natural value and rich biodiversity, with the transition from the forest to the subalpine zone becoming increasingly evident as we gain elevation. Yet these mountains have never been merely a natural boundary. For centuries, they served as routes for people, livestock and kyratzides—muleteers and carriers—connecting the villages of the Pindos with the Thessalian plain. Mountain passes and old tracks, such as the famous Vlachostrata below Triggia, followed the natural corridors of the mountains, linking valleys and mountain settlements.

Today, these same slopes offer a different way of exploration. Dirt roads, trails and old mountain passages lead us deep into the mountains, from shady forests to open ridgelines, constantly revealing new landscapes. And while people and herds once crossed these mountains in search of a route through the Pindos, today we ride in their footsteps, with no particular need to reach anywhere—simply for the pleasure of crossing a landscape that still dictates its own pace.

When we cycle through unfamiliar places, we preserve our childhood sense of wonder and the unique perception of reality that comes with it. Every dirt road becomes an invitation to explore, a small adventure. The carefree feeling, the sense that the world belongs to us, and that irresistible urge to discover the unknown are best experienced over three days of cycling in the mountains of the Southern Pindos.

In reality, cycling through the mountain ranges of Koziakas and Triggia cannot be described in kilometres and elevation gain. It is measured in breaths, seemingly endless climbs, jokes and laughter, passages through beautiful trails and enjoyable stops overlooking unforgettable landscapes that often evoke emotion and an indescribable sense of tranquillity. Three days among dense forests, alpine meadows, crystal-clear rivers, isolated villages and mountain ridges, following roads and trails through a place where nature still has the final say.

Day 1 — Ampelia to Neraidochori (45.4 km | 1,540 m ↑ | 750 m ↓)

The route starts in the village of Ampelia, built on the banks of the Kleinovitikos, a tributary of the Peneios River, at an elevation of 350 metres. The ride begins gently, following the river along a rideable dirt road with minimal gradient through a mixed forest of oak and plane trees, until reaching the paved provincial road that climbs towards the village square and café of Glykomilia (Kato Perliago), with its refreshing plane tree and essential spring at an elevation of 650 metres.

From the village begins the most demanding section of the route: a climb on a poorly surfaced dirt road, with some steep sections, but through dense oak and fir forest, leading to the magnificent Pertouli Meadows at 1,250 metres. This is an ideal place to take a break and have something to eat if you are carrying supplies. Alternatively, you can continue to the village of Vlataneoi, where the area’s only tavern operates during spring and summer (see the Food section).

The route then climbs towards the village of Vlacha and the Geladaria mountain pass, from where an epic descent begins through dense fir forest. Initially following a rideable dirt road, it then joins the stone-paved Vlach mountain trail, eventually reaching the Hatzipetrou stone bridge—monuments of another era in the Greek mountains—amid truly enchanting scenery.

A little further down, there are several ideal spots for a refreshing dip in the icy river, before completing the day with one final short climb to Neraidochori (formerly Veterniko), at an elevation of 1,250 metres.

Day 2 — Neraidochori to Krania (43.9 km | 1,520 m ↑ | 1,680 m ↓)

From Neraidochori, we follow the main road gently downhill towards Pertouli. The fresh mountain air provides a pleasant wake-up before we begin the first climb of the day on a good dirt road with gentle gradients, through the dense fir forests of the protected forest managed by the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki.

The route then becomes considerably more adventurous as it continues along an abandoned dirt road—still deep inside the forest—which was irreparably damaged by Storm Daniel, forcing us to detour along a deeply eroded track between towering ferns.

Eventually, we descend towards Chrysomilia (Ano Perliago) on a good dirt road and then continue towards Aidona along an enjoyable, abandoned and grass-covered but very rideable dirt road, with magnificent views of the surrounding mountain ranges. The road leads us to the beautiful village square, where cafés sit beneath the deep shade of centuries-old plane trees.

A short stop here is almost obligatory, although the ideal place to rest is the quiet village of Palaiochori (Palaiogortsa). To get there, we descend along the paved road to the riverbed, where unfortunately most of the plane trees have died due to the highly contagious fungus Ceratocystis platani. We then climb along the grandiose new road, costing millions of euros and serving exclusively the village of Palaiochori.

Do not be fooled by this miniature highway. Palaiochori is a beautiful mountain village with only a handful of permanent residents remaining, situated at 950 metres above sea level. Its attractive square and café/tavern, which operates year-round, make it an ideal place to regroup and replenish our energy before tackling the day’s final hard climb towards the Golemi Pass, between Triggia and the summit of Kaltsa (Neraida), at 1,600 metres.

Throughout the climb, we are surrounded by impressive mountain peaks and unforgettable views of this forgotten corner of the Pindos. This magnificent setting—the very essence of mountain biking in Greece—is completed by a rewarding descent towards the Konakia, an old and well-maintained Sarakatsani settlement where traditional huts have been replaced by wooden houses.

From there, we eventually reach Krania Aspropotamos, with its scattered neighbourhoods and churches spread across two forested slopes on either side of the Kraniotiko stream.

Day 3 — Krania to Ampelia (36.9 km | 920 m ↑ | 1,550 m ↓)

The final and easiest day begins by passing the unique and highly impressive Church of the Holy Cross before climbing towards the mountain settlement of Doliana.

From here, we follow an abandoned road for one last small adventure. Initially, the road is rideable and gains elevation easily through the fir forest, but it is eventually cut off, forcing us to carry our bikes for a few metres, stepping over fallen trees and small ravines.

Eventually, however, the road descends beautifully through a pristine beech forest before meeting the provincial road at 1,350 metres. We follow it towards Amarantos/Kastania until reaching the characteristic mountain pass at 1,430 metres.

From this point, we continue along a rideable dirt road that circles the northern slopes of Triggia, climbing to 1,600 metres and offering sweeping views over the Peneios valley and its tributaries.

The final section of the route features 16 kilometres of exhilarating descent, initially along a dirt road through magnificent mountain scenery to the village of Kleino (Kleinovo), at 1,000 metres, and then along the paved road back to the starting point, with the incomparable feeling of joy that only a long mountain descent can provide.