WESTERN AGRAFA

No matter how hard you try, it’s difficult to find words to describe this place. Perhaps that’s why it was named Agrafa—literally “unwritten.” Here, the ruggedness of the mountains has blended with the kindness of the people, a fruitful relationship that has lasted for centuries. Very little has changed over the years in these lands. The mountains have kept their wild beauty, barely touched by human interventions, while the locals have preserved their humanity, far from the alienation of big cities.

A mountain bike is perhaps the best way to experience the Agrafa. It’s slow enough to let you truly enjoy the scenery, yet fast enough to cover the relatively long distances between the isolated villages. The following route is just a glimpse of what you may find in these mountains—and surely a reason to come back…

The route runs along the slopes of Fteri and Liakoura, the highest peaks of western Agrafa. It starts from the village of Lithochori (960 m), climbing steeply up to 1,450 m just before the “Goupata” plateau, offering unmatched views of the surrounding mountains and Lake Kremaston. From there, it descends for 11 km to the villages of Vasilesi and Fousiana.

In the square of Fousiana you’ll find Panagiotis and Vasiliki’s coffeehouse—a time machine of sorts—and a stop here is absolutely mandatory!

After Fousiana, the route climbs again for 6 km, this time more gently and through a dense oak forest, leading to the pass above the village of Raptopoulo. The hardest part ends here, since only 6 downhill kilometers remain to bring you back to Lithochori.

With the exception of the Vasilesi–Fousiana stretch, the entire route follows deserted dirt roads of varying difficulty and steepness. It crosses unique fir and oak forests, climbs into alpine landscapes surrounded by sheer peaks, and passes through villages and pastoral settlements, offering an authentic glimpse of Agrafa’s nature and way of life.