VALLEY OF THE MUSES

Ascri was an ancient Boeotian city built on the eastern slopes of Mount Helicon. According to the myth recorded by the traveler and geographer Pausanias, Ascri was founded by the Aloadae, mythical figures descended from the god Poseidon. The Aloadae established Ascri alongside Oeocles, son of Poseidon and the beautiful Boeotian woman Ascra, from whom the city took its name.
In historical times, the city belonged to the state of Thespiae. Ascri was the home of Hesiod, the most renowned epic poet after Homer and the father of didactic poetry. Hesiod mentions Ascri in his work Works and Days.
To the west of the village lies Mount Zagaras, a branch of Helicon. It is a mountain with rugged terrain, abundant water, and lush greenery. Plane trees, cypresses, oaks, and kermes oaks dominate the lower slopes, while a dense fir forest covers areas above 700 m, forming the mountain’s vegetation. Between Zagaras and the village of Ascri lies the famous Valley of the Muses, traversed by the Permissos River. Here, the Aloadae introduced the worship of the Muses. They taught Hesiod the art of poetry and song while he tended his flocks in the area’s meadows. The Muses once inspired works of peace and culture for both gods and humans.
In this region, the arts were revered as the highest good, and the Thespians organized festivals in honor of these patron deities, called the Mouseia, attended by epic poets, flutists, and musicians. French excavations in 1899 uncovered the sanctuary with nine pedestals for the statues of the Muses, as well as an ancient theater nearby where ceremonies were held in their honor.
Traveling from the valley toward the village, one can see on a characteristic hill the remains of a 13th-century stone Frankish tower, while on the opposite hill, called Pyrgaki, the fortification of an ancient tower built by the Thespians in 371 BC still stands, intended to control the valley and monitor the rival city of Thebes.
Most of Boeotia’s ridges have become industrial zones for “green energy” production. Thousands of trees have been cut, and countless kilometers of new roads have been opened to install the metallic giants on their peaks. Until today, it seems as if Hesiod’s songs kept these metal monsters away from the Valley of the Muses and Zagaras. Unfortunately, with the blessing of the state machinery, voracious multinationals view every piece of land—regardless of its natural beauty or antiquities—as an investment opportunity, threatening to destroy this sacred and historic place, untouched since Hesiod’s time, making its future uncertain after 3,000 years.

The suggested route starts from the village of Ascri, initially heading north, descending to the village of Mazi, and then westward to Evangelistria. From here, it climbs 5 km up the slopes of Zagaras through dense fir forests. The final 12 km provide a delightful descent through the Valley of the Muses back to the starting point.
The terrain and gradients present no significant difficulties, making the route ideal for gravel bikes. The variety and frequent changes in scenery give the impression of cycling through multiple routes. The presence of two villages and at least three springs ensures supply; two water bottles are sufficient for the journey.