HAIDOU XANTHI

The Koula–Haidou mountain complex, in the northern part of the Xanthi prefecture, is a hidden paradise for mountain biking enthusiasts. Part of the vast forest ecosystem of Rhodope, the area combines rich natural beauty, historical heritage, and an extensive network of forest roads and trails, offering endless opportunities for discovery. The landscape is defined by vast beech, pine, and fir forests, gentle wooded peaks, and dozens of streams and rivers.
The only accommodation option in the area – apart from free camping – is the impressive “Erymanthos Forest Village”, located in the heart of the forest yet easily accessible, thanks to its asphalt connection to the city of Xanthi. Equally striking is the Livaditis waterfall, the tallest in the Balkans, just 8 easy kilometers away from the Forest Village.
Up until the mid-20th century, the landscape here looked entirely different. The forests were less widespread, and the meadows stretched endlessly, a result of intensive grazing by the thousands of sheep and goats owned by Sarakatsani shepherds. Each spring, they would migrate to the mountains, build their characteristic huts, form small settlements, and graze their herds until the arrival of winter. The fate of the area changed permanently during the Civil War, when the Sarakatsani were forced to abandon the mountains to avoid providing support to the guerrillas. Within just a few years, trees sprouted across the pastures, and the absence of heavy grazing allowed the dense forests we see today to regenerate.
The Sarakatsani were replaced in Haidou by the Muslim inhabitants of nearby Pomak villages. Like their predecessors, they move up to the mountains every spring, not with flocks of sheep but with their mules, to cut the towering trees and supply timber throughout Greece. Scattered throughout the forest, one can still see small “settlements” of caravans and wooden huts where the loggers live during the summer months. Meeting them is worth the stop: they are a distinct, strikingly characteristic community (tall, blond, blue-eyed), with their own language, unique customs and traditions, and a strong sense of hospitality. They are always willing to share their stories and whatever goods their humble huts may provide.
From 1936 to 1996, these people were treated as outsiders—even though they were and are Greek citizens. Their language, and above all their religion, were seen as obstacles to the creation of a “pure Greek race,” as envisioned by the official state. For decades, they lived under the strict supervision of the army and gendarmerie, confined to their mountain villages. There was even a checkpoint at the entrance of the area, where they had to show passports in order to exit to the plains and the city of Xanthi. Passage was allowed only during daylight hours. Yet, this enforced isolation preserved the authenticity of their unique culture, which can still be admired today when visiting the Pomak villages.

The suggested route starts from the Erymanthos Forest Village, heading first north and then west, descending for 7 km through dense beech forests until reaching the plateau where the trail to the Livaditis waterfall begins.
For the next 4 km, we follow the steep, well-maintained path down to the impressive Livaditis waterfall. The more adventurous can attempt the first 400–500 m of the descent by bike, as this section is dirt and more manageable compared to the rest of the trail, which ends directly at the waterfall.
After returning to the trailhead, we continue along a wide dirt road for 1.5 km, then follow the asphalt road that leads back to the Forest Village. But the ride doesn’t end there! For a “cool down,” we’ve added a small 4.5 km loop that should not be missed. Along the way, you’ll discover the seasonal camp of Pomak loggers and ride the most beautiful section of the route: a unique, fast, downhill trail through dense beech forest that perfectly caps off a full day of cycling adventure.