NORTHERN PINDUS

Northern Pindus, one of Greece’s most beautiful and unspoiled treasures, is a paradise for nature and adventure lovers. Stretching from Thessaly to the Greek–Albanian border, it encompasses some of the country’s most breathtaking landscapes. Towering mountains with steep slopes and impenetrable forests, crystal-clear rivers twisting through deep gorges, and a wealth of wildlife create a scene of unparalleled beauty that captivates the visitor instantly.
The suggested route is an odyssey through the heart of Pindos, traversing blood-soaked Grammos, the imposing slopes of Smolikas, and the lush greenery of Voio. The journey dips into the emerald waters of Lake Moutsalia and follows the Aliakmon River. Within dense forests of beech, oak, and black pine, cyclists enjoy cool shade and the melodic chorus of birds, traveling through a living canvas of colors and scents.
Every stop along the way feels like a step back in time. Dozens of villages, built from stone and wood, preserve their unique history and traditions. Each village is a microcosm offering travelers the chance to experience the simplicity and harmony of rural Greek life. The hospitable locals, through their stories and their warmth, invite visitors to share moments and create memories that will never fade.
This cycling adventure in Northern Pindos is far more than physical activity. It is a feast for the senses, a life experience blending the exploration of pristine Greek nature with the rediscovery of a Greece slipping away with time. A journey that promises to remain forever in memory — and to ignite countless more rides in the years to come.

Day 1 – In the Land of the Vlachs (Samarina – Lykorachi 42.2 km ↑ 740m – ↓ 1160m)
Samarina is considered not only the highest village in Greece but also in the entire Balkans, built on the eastern slopes of Mount Smolikas at an altitude of 1,450 meters. All its inhabitants have Vlach origins and, in the past, were exclusively engaged in livestock farming, as was typical of the Vlachs. Each spring, they would migrate up from Thessaly with their herds and remain in the village throughout the summer. Even today, every summer, they return to their ancestral land, bringing their village back to life.
The resilience and indomitable spirit of these mountain people led many Samarina natives to join the struggle for liberation from Ottoman rule. Several distinguished themselves in battle and became legendary figures, such as Michos Samariniotis and the famous Captain Arkoudas (born Georgios Lepeniotis). However, the most glorious chapter in Samarina’s history was written in the “Metropolis of Freedom,” Messolonghi. Among the besieged defenders who withstood months of Turkish attacks were 120 men from Samarina. When food and water ran out and disease spread, the revolutionaries made the heroic decision to break out on the night of April 9–10, 1826. The Samarina fighters formed the vanguard and bore the brunt of the assault. Of the 120, only 33 returned alive. In their honor, the well-known folk song “The Boys of Samarina” is still sung today, recalling the blood-stained young men who never saw their homeland again.
From the northwestern exit of Samarina, we follow the asphalt road toward Fourka. The route first climbs for 7 km through alpine meadows and pastures, reaching over 1,700 meters, before descending through a dense beech forest to the village of Fourka. It’s a charming village in its simplicity, with well-kept stone houses, an impressive church in the central square, narrow lanes, and cafés where you can enjoy coffee and local treats.
From Fourka begins a stunning 15 km downhill dirt road winding through a dense oak forest. Midway down, you’ll find the Monastery of the Dormition of the Virgin Mary (known as Panagia Kladormi), founded in the 12th century. It is surrounded by high walls, and inside the church, visitors can admire the gilded wooden iconostasis, 16th-century frescoes, and a thick chain in the narthex — a remnant of an old Christian method used to “heal” the mentally ill. The dirt road ends at the old Kozani–Ioannina national road, where we turn left toward Kefalochori.
Once, this road was the main artery connecting Igoumenitsa and Ioannina with Thessaloniki, used daily by thousands of cars and trucks. However, the construction of the Egnatia Odos gradually led to its abandonment — making it now ideal for cycling. It follows the right bank of the Sarantaporos River, with its wide bed and cool waters, and after 7 km reaches Kefalochori. This is a relatively new village, built by residents of nearby Lykorachi, which was eventually abandoned. Here you’ll find two tavernas (“O Kostas” and “To Spitiko”), both excellent choices for a meal before beginning the final ascent toward your first-day destination — the deserted village of Lykorachi.
Lykorachi is an entirely stone-built settlement that was abandoned in the 1970s due to landslides and soil subsidence. Today, the village church, the old school, and several walls of ruined houses still stand. There is plenty of space for camping, a fountain with cold water, and complete absence of human disturbance — everything one needs for a peaceful night’s sleep under the stars.

Day 2 – Crossing Mount Grammos (Lykorachi – Grammousta, 39.5 km ↑ 1310m – ↓ 940m)
Mount Grammos is the fourth highest mountain in Greece, after Olympus, Smolikas, and Vora (Kaimaktsalan), with its highest peak, Tsouka Petsik, reaching 2,520 meters. It is covered in dense forests of beech, fir, and black pine, and is the source of many streams and rivers — including the Aliakmonas, Greece’s longest river that originates entirely within Greek territory. Its forests and slopes are home to important species such as wolves, bears, golden eagles, black woodpeckers, and more than a thousand types of plants.
Despite its natural beauty, Grammos marks a tragic point on the world map — a red dot of blood. Here, the final act of the Greek Civil War (1946–1949) was played out — one of only two ideological (rather than purely fratricidal) wars fought in Europe in the 20th century, the other being the Spanish Civil War. In a miscalculated strategic move, the Democratic Army of Greece concentrated its forces on Grammos, hoping for support from Russia that never came. On the other side, the National Army, backed by major world powers and especially by the Americans, relentlessly bombarded the mountain, killing or displacing thousands of DSE fighters. The bombings were so intense that locals say the shape of the peaks themselves was altered. Even today, remnants of the war — trenches, bunkers, and even remains of Napalm bombs (first tested here) — can still be found across the mountain.
As you cycle across Grammos, ride in silence — as a tribute to all those who shed their blood fighting for ideals like freedom, equality, and justice.
The second day is entirely off-road and perhaps the most fascinating of the entire route. It begins in Lykorachi and climbs for 13 km through magnificent forests to the pass between the Kato and Pano Arena peaks, then descends gently for 2 km to the Moutsalia Lakes. This is one of Greece’s most beautiful alpine wetland ecosystems, surrounded by dense beech forest — the perfect place for a long break to rest and take in the landscape.
From there, except for two short uphill kilometers, the remaining 18 km to the Grammousta junction are downhill, shaded, and immensely enjoyable. After crossing the Aliakmonas bridge, a final 3 km ascent brings you to the village of Grammousta — so keep a bit of energy for the end.
In its prime (17th–18th centuries), Grammousta was a thriving village of 15,000 inhabitants, but it was completely abandoned during the civil war. On our first cycling visit in 2003, only two of the four walls of the central church were still standing. In recent years, the establishment of a military outpost and the reconstruction of several houses by descendants of former residents have brought life back to this ghost village. Among these, the beautifully crafted and welcoming Grammos Lodge stands out — a cozy mountain refuge where we highly recommend staying and dining (contact the manager in advance at +30 694 243 2227).

Day 3 – Along the Banks of the Aliakmonas River – Grammousta – Koromilia (59.6 km ↑ 690m – ↓ 1340m)
The Aliakmonas River, the longest river entirely within Greece, accompanies most of the route on this third day. Starting from Grammousta, we retrace our path to the Aliakmonas bridge and then climb up to the main asphalt road toward Nestorio for about 4 km. At the top of the ascent, we leave the paved road to “take a shortcut” via a wonderful 6.5 km downhill dirt road that winds through dense vegetation and eventually reconnects with the main road near the village of Pefkos.
Pefkos, like Grammousta, declined after the Civil War, but a few residents have since returned and maintain several stone houses scattered amid the greenery. In summer, the local association’s café operates here — an ideal place to stop and rest.
The next stop is Nestorio, located 17 km away on asphalt. Despite being paved, this section is anything but boring — it follows the river’s left bank, with little traffic, gentle slopes, and lush vegetation. Just before entering Nestorio, you’ll see the grounds of the famous River Party, Greece’s first and most renowned outdoor music festival. Now in its 44th year, it has hosted nearly every major name in Greek rock and contemporary music.
Nestorio is the main village of the area, home to around 3,000 inhabitants. It features beautiful stone houses and narrow alleys, and offers everything you might need to recharge before continuing your journey — cafés, tavernas, and supermarkets.
From Nestorio, a smooth downhill road — still following the riverbanks — crosses a fertile valley filled with every kind of cultivation, passing successively through the villages of Kalochori and Mesopotamia before reaching Koromilia.
Mesopotamia is a larger village with supermarkets where you can stock up on supplies for the next two days. Koromilia, though not architecturally remarkable, has a nice taverna (Agia Sofia) and a spacious area for camping behind the church.
The true gem of the village, however, is the Koromilia Gorge. It begins at the stone bridge of Koromilia, about 1 km from the village, stretching for 2.5 km with rock walls reaching up to 70 meters. It’s easily walkable thanks to a stone path built along its banks — but the best part awaits your return: just below the bridge, a small wooden dam creates a natural pool where you can enjoy an incredibly refreshing swim!

DAY 4 – The Forgotten Villages (Koromilia – Korestia 25.3 km ↑ 380m – ↓ 240m)
Leaving Koromilia, we join the main road heading north (to the right) toward the Prespa area, to explore the beautiful villages of Korestia. The asphalt road climbs steeply for the first 3.5 km before leveling out for the rest of the way. Once, this was the main route connecting Greece with Albania, but today it sees little traffic—mostly locals and tourists heading to Prespes. It runs parallel to the Ladopotamos River and is surrounded by dense vegetation, making for a very pleasant ride. At the first parking area you’ll see on your right, it’s worth stopping to admire the single-arched stone bridge of Dendrohori (also known as Beriki), built in 1866. A little further along, you’ll encounter a military metal bridge, one of the few still active in Greece.
The first destination of the day is Neos Oikismos (New Settlement), or Korestia, which—as its name suggests—is a new (and rather charmless) village built in the 1970s to consolidate residents from nearby hamlets into a place offering the “comforts” of concrete houses. It was an era when, all across Greece, along with our sense of pride, we also lost our sense of aesthetics—a fact you’ll realize when you see the villages people abandoned to move here. If it weren’t for the supermarkets, tavernas, and cafés, we’d say to skip it entirely—but you’ll find no such facilities in any of the surrounding villages, so you’ll have to make do.
The main road runs through the village and continues toward the deserted Korestia settlements. Just outside Neos Oikismos, turn right toward Kraniona, a completely abandoned village that still boasts some of the most beautiful mudbrick houses in the area—well worth wandering around to admire and photograph while they still stand. Continuing left at the fork in the village center, the road crosses a ravine and leads to Ano Kraniona. Only a few buildings remain here, hinting that this was once a village. However, there’s a well-kept church with a pergola and a freshwater spring, making it an ideal place to spend the night (and to wash your clothes, as this marks the midpoint of the route).
Once you’ve unloaded your gear, prepare for a visit to two more mudbrick villages straight out of a movie scene—Mavrokampos and Chalara.
Despite its rich history, natural beauty, and striking mudbrick architecture—unique examples of cultural and architectural heritage—the region is rarely mentioned in history books or travel guides. The reasons become clear when you delve into its past. The presence of Slavic-speaking Macedonians in many villages and the involvement of many locals in the Democratic Army during the Civil War made the area a sore point for the Greek state. It didn’t fit the ideal of “national purity” that the regime of the time envisioned. When efforts to “Hellenize” the inhabitants failed—even after erasing Slavic names from icons and gravestones—they were driven to emigrate.
For more fascinating insights into the history and architecture of the region, see the book “Korestia – The Forgotten Villages” by Angelos Sinanis.

DAY 5 – Introduction to Voio (Korestia – Polykastano 69.3 km ↑ 1180m – ↓ 960m)
From Kraniona, we retrace our route back to Koromilia, following the same road in reverse from the previous day. After Koromilia, we continue along the provincial road, passing through the villages of Lefki and Maniakoi before reaching Argos Orestiko, the second-largest town in the prefecture of Kastoria. Though it won’t impress you with its looks, it holds great historical and archaeological importance for its ancient Greek and Roman remains and is considered the cradle of the ancient Macedonian Kingdom. Argos Orestiko was the capital of ancient Orestis, a province of Upper Macedonia. Based on archaeological evidence, researchers associate the ancient city with the ruins at Armenochori, located near the present-day town of the same name. In the late 3rd century AD, the city was rebuilt by Diocletian, fortified with strong walls, and renamed Diocletianoupolis. Among the local archaeological finds are traces of its trapezoidal fortification with towers, a Roman structure, three Early Christian basilicas, rural villas, and Early Christian tombs—mainly at the Paravela site, where excavations are ongoing.
The next stop along the route is the rural village of Ammoudara, home to a small hydrotherapy spa with nine individual baths that make use of the area’s sulfur springs. Continuing on, we reach the village of Nostimo, which marks our entrance into the Voio mountain range. Nostimo is known for its fossilized forest, estimated to be 15–20 million years old, located about 2 km outside the village. You’ll see road signs pointing toward the fossil forest area—it’s worth following them to explore the cycling routes that were once created for visitors, now mostly abandoned along with some auxiliary buildings left to decay. The fossils—petrified trunks of tropical trees, marine invertebrates, fish, and mammals—are gathered and displayed at the Museum of Paleontology & Paleobotany in Nostimo.
After Nostimo, the asphalt road climbs gently to Damaskinia, one of the largest and most beautiful villages of Voio—an ideal spot for a coffee break in one of its traditional cafés. From there, the road descends for about 5 km to the small village of Liknades, before the final 9 km of uphill riding through a magnificent oak forest leading to the day’s final destination, the picturesque village of Polykastano.
Polykastano was chosen as the endpoint of the fifth day not only for its beauty but also for gastronomic reasons. Here you’ll find “O Klepsios”, one of the finest tavernas in the region. Be sure to call the day before to confirm it’s open and reserve a table, and ask Apostolis to prepare his specialties: batzos cheese with eggs and manari, along with anything else your appetite desires.
An ideal place to pitch your tent after dinner is the shaded courtyard of Agia Paraskevi Church, built in 1795, featuring an impressive carved wooden iconostasis and old frescoes.

DAY 6 – Kastanochoria & Mastorochoria Villages (Polykastano – Dotsiko 40.1 km ↑ 820m – ↓ 840m)
Mount Voio is a low-elevation mountain covered in dense forests and rich in water sources, shared between the prefectures of Kozani, Kastoria, and Grevena. Scattered across its slopes are more than 85 stone-built villages, connected by a dense network of roads and trails. The mountain dwellers once lived primarily from farming and livestock, while many became renowned stonemasons, traveling across Greece to build houses and bridges of remarkable craftsmanship.
Until the 1990s, the villages—large and small—were full of life. In summer, the courtyards and alleys echoed with children’s laughter and footsteps, while in the squares and cafés you could still hear stories from the difficult years of the occupation and the civil war. But the complete lack of state support—for both infrastructure and, more importantly, jobs—drove most residents to the cities. Over the last twenty years, the villages of Voio have been abandoned. The once lively cafés, which were the heart of every community, can no longer be sustained and are closing one after another.
Only the elderly remain—“guarding Thermopylae,” as the saying goes—watching time pass slowly through the window, waiting for the last person who will one day close the village gate forever. Thankfully, the last generation that grew up here—now retired—returns every summer, giving the villages a hint of their lost vitality and offering visitors the chance to hear stories fading into memory. So, while you still can, visit these places—before they become ghost villages.
Starting from Polykastano, we cycle along a ridge with wonderful views, moving deeper into the heart of Voio. We pass by the small village of Dafni, with just 30 residents, and after 9 km of asphalt road, we reach Avgerino, one of the most famous villages of Voio. The settlement has existed here for over 500 years, and before the occupation it had more than 1,000 inhabitants, serving as the region’s main village. Avgerino features mostly stone-built houses, lovely alleys, and a large square—perfect for a rest stop.
From here begins a delightful 8 km dirt-road descent through dense oak forest, leading to the village of Morfi, which today counts only about 15 permanent residents. We then return to the asphalt, passing by the villages of Agia Sotira and Dilofo before reaching Dasylio. Only seven people live there year-round, but the village café remains open daily. It’s worth visiting—not so much for food or drink, but to experience the true meaning of Greek hospitality.
About 1.5 km after the village, at the second left hairpin, leave the asphalt and enter the most fascinating part of the day’s route: a dirt road used more by bears than by people (as you’ll notice from their footprints). The path follows a cool stream gorge, ideal for a refreshing swim, with striking rock formations and a gentle climb leading to today’s destination, the village of Dotsiko.

DAY 7 – The End… (Dotsiko – Samarina 20.4 km ↑ 720m – ↓ 380m)
Dotsiko is the northernmost—and one of the most beautiful—villages of the Grevena region. Its most distinctive landmark is the impressive stone-arched bridge located in the center of the village, built in 1804 by local stonemasons. The bridge connects the two neighborhoods of the village and serves as a key reference point for both residents and visitors.
Although Dotsiko counts only seven permanent inhabitants during the winter months, it attracts many visitors throughout the year. Thanks to this steady flow, several cafés and tavernas remain open year-round and are definitely worth a visit.
In the late 1970s, Dotsiko served as a filming location for Theodoros Angelopoulos’ award-winning film “Alexander the Great”, which received the Golden Lion at the Venice Film Festival. During an entire winter, the village was transformed for the production, with many residents from Grevena participating voluntarily—some as extras, others with small roles.
Leaving Dotsiko, we head west (left) onto the main Grevena–Samarina asphalt road, following it for about 7 km. At the end of the descent, at a large junction, we turn left onto a wide and well-maintained dirt road. This road climbs to an altitude of 1,600 meters, winding through dense forests and mountain streams, passing several sheepfolds before finally reaching Samarina—a fitting finale to a magical journey through the mountains of Northern Pindus.