EASTERN AGRAFA

Visiting Agrafa is like taking a journey through time. It begins in the Cretaceous period, when the alpine mountains were still being formed, and continues through key moments that reveal the region’s proud history and resilient spirit. This is a land shaped by resistance—from the Ottoman era, when Agrafa remained unconquered, to the Occupation, when ELAS turned it into one of Greece’s first liberated areas. Today, the grassroots movement #saveagrafa has succeeded in protecting its peaks from destruction for minimal power generation, standing against unchecked “green” development.
The eastern side of Agrafa—also called Thessalian Agrafa—stretches from Lake Plastira across a chain of peaks exceeding 2,000 meters: Karava, Voutsikaki, Borlero, Katarachias, and Svoni. Though it appears remote, a network of roads links the scattered settlements and serves the region’s wandering shepherds. This largely unknown network offers an unparalleled playground for cycling adventures.
Among these roads, one stands out as perhaps the most remarkable in all of the Greek mountains: the crossing of Niala. At 1,700–1,900 meters, it skirts the peaks so closely that it almost feels possible to touch them. From here, the views stretch over the Thessalian plain and toward the western peaks of Agrafa. Yet Niala is more than breathtaking scenery—it is history. A dramatic chapter unfolded here in the spring of 1947, during one of the most intense episodes of the Greek Civil War (see “The History of Niala” below).

The recommended Agrafa route can be completed in three days of cycling. The longer and more challenging sections are on asphalt roads, while all descents are unpaved and highly enjoyable. Most dirt roads are regularly maintained, but their passability can be affected by weather conditions, particularly heavy rain or storms.
Water sources are available at regular intervals, and carrying two water bottles is sufficient even on very hot days. Options for ready-made food or resupply are limited, so it’s recommended to call the stops where you plan to eat in advance to avoid surprises.

Day 1: Belokómiti – Agrafa (44.2 km | 1,280 m ↑ | 1,410 m ↓)

Starting from the village of Belokómiti, we climb for 13 km along a north-facing asphalt road to the Agios Nikolaos col, above the village of Vraggiana, covering the first 700 meters of ascent.
Next comes the most scenic section of the day: a dirt road that winds between the highest peaks of eastern Agrafa and the famous Niala, ending at the pastoral settlement of Kamaria.
The day finishes with 16 km of delightful downhill cycling to the village of Agrafa, not along the main road, but via an almost unknown dirt track that crosses streams, waterfalls, and rarely-visited spots.
In the village, you’ll find 3–4 taverns and cafés for meals. For overnight stays, you can choose the Agios Dimitrios Church or, for more comfort, the guesthouses: Kyra Niki (tel. 22370 93209) and Pyrgos ton Agrafon (tel. 22370 93200).

Day 2: Agrafa – Petrilo (33.5 km | 1,220 m ↑ | 890 m ↓)

The day begins with a steep descent toward the Agrafiotis River, followed by a riverside asphalt road heading north to the junction for Epiniána. Here, the first dirt section starts, climbing alongside the river to the picturesque village of Trovato, which has two taverns. The recommended stop is “Apólafsis” in the upper neighborhood (tel. 6976284947).
Next, a challenging 10 km asphalt climb (+700 m) leads to the “Tria Synora” pass, but the effort is rewarded with a relaxing descent through fir forests and meadows to Petrilo, the second stop on the route.
In the village, the café-shop “Gkatzoudis” is a classic spot with a cycling heritage—trophies from the owner’s children decorate the space. For a proper meal and overnight stay, continue to Livádia, where the tavern-guesthouse “Ta Livadia” operates (tel. 6972 113659). Alternatively, slightly further along, you’ll find a small chapel with running water and a shelter, ideal for free camping.

Day 3: Petrilo – Belokómiti (40.3 km | 1,320 m ↑ | 1,520 m ↓)

Starting from Petrilo or Livádia, we climb north for 10 km to a chapel with a hunters’ shelter, leaving the asphalt road behind. The dirt road continues uphill for another 4 km along the slopes of Voutsikaki, before giving way to a long dirt descent to the village of Fylakti.
The descent continues on asphalt for another 3 km, leaving the final ascent to the village of Neraida. Just outside the village, a forest road gently descends, leading to the route’s endpoint.